Cobra 148 fake?

The place to talk about specific radios, equipment and accessories. Do you prefer the latest generation of rigs and antennas or do you like the classics? Discuss it here!
Post Reply
User avatar
Otter
Veteran
Veteran
Posts: 3363
Joined: 04 Apr 2008, 21:42
Call Sign: 26TM439

Re: Cobra 148 fake?

Post by Otter »

So, you know how to paint....does that hammerite stuff still have the issue that you can't put an extra coat on once it's dried, or have they changed the formulation since the 1990s? Does Hammerite even need primer? I thought it didn't.
"To this day the words Stirling bridge conjour pride in every Scotsman's heart, while to an Englishman those same words conjour literally no feelings at all." - Cunk on Britain S1 E1
The Collector
Legend
Legend
Posts: 8666
Joined: 23 Jan 2010, 19:26
Location: Bristol-ish

Re: Cobra 148 fake?

Post by The Collector »

You can sometimes get away with going straight onto bare metal with the brush-applied stuff if it's a thickish coating, although when I last used the flat black stuff on a car trailer I did up 2 years ago, I found you could still see microscopic traces of the metal through the paint, so a second, quick coat was applied.

You're right when you say that some paints have to be reapplied whilst still tacky, whereas others like some emulsion paints have to be pretty dried out, otherwise the second coat can possibly peel the first one off! You can apply a second coat if the first one has dried out, but it means rubbing the surface down again to provide a rough surface for the second coat to grab on to. That can be very labour-intensive and the paint has to have dried fully or it can be "dragged" when rubbing it down if it isn't cured or hardened enough.

I'm going to read the instructions on the 2 cans to see what they recommend, plus I'll do a test piece to see if the hammerite will react badly with the normal primer. It may eat into it and cause a "wrinkle effect" which I've actually used deliberately to get such an effect in the past, although not on an expensive radio's casings, only a crappy one.

I'll also do a test piece of the flat, satin paint with a single coat to ensure you can't see any metal underneath whatsoever.

Whichever one coats best will have a flash over with the hammered-effect stuff to give it that slightly "mottled" look. It has to be done from a distance so you don't get lines and as the paint is starting to dry in the air before it almost floats down and settles onto the metal, it helps it to create speckles, rather than form a uniform surace which wont give a mottled effect.

I'm by no means an expert on paints or painting though and I still get things wrong on the odd occasion ;)
I've been messing with paint (especially spray cans) for about 37 years and used to do a lot of enamel-based painting (mainly hammerite) with my dad and I also worked with a painter and decorator for a couple of years. When spraying with cans for example, distance from the object, temperature, windy conditions (if spraying outdoors which I mostly do) and humidity can all make a difference to the finished article.

Just remember, with something like metal radio cases, if you bugger it up you can use solvent and wipe it all off, or wait until it's completely dry and sand it down again...and try again.


Some tips for those possibly willing to have a go -


*Stick a breathing mask on, even if outdoors. Use latex/nitrile gloves to help stop you having coloured fingers for days on end :)

If you don't do a good job of sanding, filling etc. any paint applied will look pants. It's all about the preparation beforehand. If you can feel any blemishes in its bare metal state, any paint applied will simply accentuate the issue.

As mentioned above, most car spray paints will need a primer coat first. Check the can's instructions.

Multiple thin coats with a few minutes inbetween are preferable to less, thicker coats which can "pool" on the flat or run down the verticals.

Sprays are usually applied 12"-18" away from the object, depending on the can's nozzle spray pattern and passing speed etc.

Do the edges first. Move left to right, right to left in slightly overlapping passes. You'll need to quicken your speed it you see the paint building up too fast. I usually hold the casing like a waiter holds a plate. Once the edges are done, it can then be sat on top of a small paint can or similar to do the rest.

Some people let go of the nozzle as they pass the end of the object, others don't. I do myself as it wastes a bit of paint every time otherwise.

Shake the can about every 30 seconds to keep it mixed. Don't shake it over the object though in case a bit of excess paint on the nozzle flicks off onto it.

Don't try and spray a small patch as it won't look right, do the whole thing.

Don't spray and leave to dry where stuff from trees etc. can drop on it. Watch out for pesky flies too! Leave to dry for a couple of days. Don't leave to dry where the temperature can drop too low as the paint may end up with a "misty" effect which is called "blooming".

Don't spray in temperatures below about 15 degrees, and do it on a wind-less sunny day so there's very little moisture about or dust to land on it.

If doing stuff in a metallic colour, you'll usually need a clear coat of lacquer over the top to protect it.

There are probably load of tutorials on Youtube about spraying with cans. Different people will no doubt have different methods. I just make it up as I go along sometimes lol ;)
The Collector
Legend
Legend
Posts: 8666
Joined: 23 Jan 2010, 19:26
Location: Bristol-ish

Re: Cobra 148 fake?

Post by The Collector »

Quick Cobra Mk3 "Cobtel" update -

I replaced the broken 2-pin power socket today. It only cost me £2.30 posted for a square-cornered one rather than the rounded ones found on most Cybernet radios, so I could keep it original style and use the original squared power plug.

After firing it up for the first time, I noticed the meter bulb had gone (2 radios purchased lately and both had bulbs out), but there was white noise coming out of it without a mic' plugged in (strange for a Cybernet radio) and stranger again because it should have squealed loudly as per the ebay description. I've sorted the meter bulb out (no poxy modern LED's for this baby) which was a bit of a faff to get to.

I plugged the Cobra mic' that it came with in and the poor radio started squealing like a Banshee, so it was instantly ripped out again. I put another Cybernet-wired mic' in that I know works and all was as it should be white noise-wise. The squeal was the main reason why the seller was selling it as spares/needs fixing! I put a rubber duck on the back of it and spoke quickly into my handheld and it worked! I then used my Excalibur Homebase to monitor it and it TX'd on the 5 blocks that that covers and went "quieter" on RX when I TX'd on block 6 too. I know I've only tried it on FM, but the thing wasn't supposed to work at all, so thus far I'm really chuffed :)

All that hopefully needs doing to it to finish it off then is to try and find an original mic' and respray the cases. They're not the worst in the world as they are, but for this thing they've got to be brought up to a better standard.
The Collector
Legend
Legend
Posts: 8666
Joined: 23 Jan 2010, 19:26
Location: Bristol-ish

Re: Cobra 148 fake?

Post by The Collector »

The cases didn't need a primer (only needed on zinc or aluminium) so a coat of satin then a quick blow-over of hammered-effect.
Here are a couple of before and after pic's showing how I tried to get a similar stippled effect. It's not ideal spraying weather at the moment, but I couldn't be arsed to wait for another heatwave :) -
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
User avatar
Otter
Veteran
Veteran
Posts: 3363
Joined: 04 Apr 2008, 21:42
Call Sign: 26TM439

Re: Cobra 148 fake?

Post by Otter »

That looks really good.
"To this day the words Stirling bridge conjour pride in every Scotsman's heart, while to an Englishman those same words conjour literally no feelings at all." - Cunk on Britain S1 E1
The Collector
Legend
Legend
Posts: 8666
Joined: 23 Jan 2010, 19:26
Location: Bristol-ish

Re: Cobra 148 fake?

Post by The Collector »

It'll do the job thanks ;)

As it was raining when I applied the satin coat just inside the garage door, I had to heat the garage up a bit so the damp wouldn't get to it. I then warmed the cases over with my hot air gun until they started going matt. Then a quick flash-over of the hammered stuff got it to look mottled. It's pretty close to how it would've been with maybe just a tad more mottling, but it's definitely an improvement.

I'll leave them for a couple of days to harden properly then stick them back on the radio with the new black screws I've bought.

The 2 cans of different Hammerite and the screws cost just over £15 in total, but it was worth it. Plus, there's enough left to do another few radios in the future.

Must get some more cheap masks too as I had to double-up because I can't inhale fumes and the rubber bands snapped on the last 2 I had left as they'd perished. I had to put masking tape around my head to hold them on my face!

The pic's below are shrunk in size and the bottom dual one looks fuzzy, but they're pretty good in the flesh.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
User avatar
lambrettadave
Veteran
Veteran
Posts: 2918
Joined: 11 Apr 2011, 15:50
Call Sign: TM455
Location: sunderland
Contact:

Re: Cobra 148 fake?

Post by lambrettadave »

Looks a good job Dave.

The rig it's self look's like my cte/Alan/midland 88s.

I need to do the case's on mine but I think I will try the rotel paint from kcb on mine and to be honest I could do with a new front panel too.
CALL SIGN 26TM455 OPERATOR DAVE QTH SUNDERLAND

http://www.flickr.com/photos/88011785@N06/ for CB magazine.reviews

http://www.youtube.com/user/lambrettadave7 for some vids of my radios.
User avatar
cb4ever104
Legend
Legend
Posts: 6551
Joined: 28 Jul 2011, 21:26
Location: Alicante , España

Re: Cobra 148 fake?

Post by cb4ever104 »

We could do with another "Nick" on the forum who's willing to do these types of jobs on cases , bezels etc.
30TM060
Paul aka "Sammy". (108) PY60 Old Paisley DX Group (RIP Rab Markie)
Ex GM0 , now EA5 .
Handle "Fortune Hunter" back in "the day"
Radios ....? Anything that says "TAIWAN R.O.C" on the back.
The Collector
Legend
Legend
Posts: 8666
Joined: 23 Jan 2010, 19:26
Location: Bristol-ish

Re: Cobra 148 fake?

Post by The Collector »

That's true. I've almost given up messing with paint, but just HAVE to get this Cobra sorted. I think George (Irishman) used to do a few bits of painting so maybe he ought to set up a case-painting business ;)

It can be a pain posting the cases back though as they can get easily damaged. The paint can take weeks to fully harden 100%, especially enamel as it's thicker.

I once bought a nice radio that'd had the cases recently resprayed and the guy had wrapped it well in bubble-wrap. When it arrived and the bubble-wrap was removed, It'd impressed hundreds of little spots into the paint which I couldn't remove with T-cut etc. I ended up flattening the paint and spraying them lightly again. What a faff.

I did think about spraying this Cobras cases in grey like the Rotel, but wanted to keep it as original as possible. Yes, you heard it correctly, I didn't completely tart one of my radios up for a change! ;)

The hardest bit of the cases is getting the paint out of the screw fixing recesses. I use a brass wire gizmo in my drill for that. Don't use a steel one though or it may scratch deeply and show through the paint.

I used to use Ford Graphite Grey Metallic years ago, followed by a quick coat of clear lacquer, and Ford Mercury Grey was similar, but a couple of shades lighter IIRC. Remember that the clear coat will darken the grey by a shade, maybe a couple of shades if you really coat it thickly.

I've got to respray the Cobra's knobs as they were originally grey. You can see the remnants of it in places where the fingers don't touch. Getting the white dots back on them perfectly is the hardest bit. I'll wait for better weather to do that as that paint will bloom more easily in this damp weather.
The Collector
Legend
Legend
Posts: 8666
Joined: 23 Jan 2010, 19:26
Location: Bristol-ish

Re: Cobra 148 fake?

Post by The Collector »

I thought I'd quickly update this topic and post a few pics of my Cobra 148 GTL-DX Mk3 (the "Cobtel" as I've nicknamed it), now that it's done radio-wise.

I've rubbed down and resprayed the knobs in metallic grey (the channel selector knob looks a different shade in the 1st pic' for some reason, but okay in the other 2) and I've also redone the little white dots on the ends too, which are a bit fiddly to do. The newly resprayed cases look really good on it and setnit off nicely. I've gone for originality (my God, I must be losing the plot!), so I didn't go down the route of spraying the cases in grey and just kept them to the peppered black effect as they came from the factory.

I didn't touch the rear panel as I didn't want to destroy its no.33 serial number (thought it was higher originally).

I think it's turned out nice personally...and I'm a fussy old git ;) :
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
User avatar
andrew013
Top Poster
Top Poster
Posts: 1987
Joined: 17 Aug 2010, 12:41
Call Sign: 26AT013
Location: gateshead tyne and wear

Re: Cobra 148 fake?

Post by andrew013 »

The Collector wrote: 23 Nov 2020, 17:16 I thought I'd quickly update this topic and post a few pics of my Cobra 148 GTL-DX Mk3 (the "Cobtel" as I've nicknamed it), now that it's done radio-wise.

I've rubbed down and resprayed the knobs in metallic grey (the channel selector knob looks a different shade in the 1st pic' for some reason, but okay in the other 2) and I've also redone the little white dots on the ends too, which are a bit fiddly to do. The newly resprayed cases look really good on it and setnit off nicely. I've gone for originality (my God, I must be losing the plot!), so I didn't go down the route of spraying the cases in grey and just kept them to the peppered black effect as they came from the factory.

I didn't touch the rear panel as I didn't want to destroy its no.33 serial number (thought it was higher originally).

I think it's turned out nice personally...and I'm a fussy old git ;) :
top job there , i nearly bought one of those many many years ago wish i had now
on air,tyne&wear,northumberland,durham,holy island,eu120+eu124 and anywhere from gateshead/north wales
scrap uk 40 give cbers L/M/Hcalling on 27.355/555 usb qsy 27.015 lsb/410 usb cb radio is for life not just for profits
i do cb radio not 11mtres,countrys worked 2015 with imax 2000 72
original45
Radio Addict
Radio Addict
Posts: 942
Joined: 31 Jul 2013, 21:11
Call Sign: 45

Re: Cobra 148 fake?

Post by original45 »

Nice work on the paint job it looks fantastic. I bet it cost me over 20£ last time I prepped and sprayed a old rotel 240. You done that dam well matey.
User avatar
cb4ever104
Legend
Legend
Posts: 6551
Joined: 28 Jul 2011, 21:26
Location: Alicante , España

Re: Cobra 148 fake?

Post by cb4ever104 »

I'm sure Dave won't mind if we all start sending him our old beat up cases so that he can restore them all for us free of charge . Please supply your address Dave when you have all the supplies ready :)
30TM060
Paul aka "Sammy". (108) PY60 Old Paisley DX Group (RIP Rab Markie)
Ex GM0 , now EA5 .
Handle "Fortune Hunter" back in "the day"
Radios ....? Anything that says "TAIWAN R.O.C" on the back.
User avatar
lambrettadave
Veteran
Veteran
Posts: 2918
Joined: 11 Apr 2011, 15:50
Call Sign: TM455
Location: sunderland
Contact:

Re: Cobra 148 fake?

Post by lambrettadave »

Well done Dave, it looks fantastic.

You must be very proud of yourself.
CALL SIGN 26TM455 OPERATOR DAVE QTH SUNDERLAND

http://www.flickr.com/photos/88011785@N06/ for CB magazine.reviews

http://www.youtube.com/user/lambrettadave7 for some vids of my radios.
The Collector
Legend
Legend
Posts: 8666
Joined: 23 Jan 2010, 19:26
Location: Bristol-ish

Re: Cobra 148 fake?

Post by The Collector »

Well...to be honest, when I just looked at the pictures, I've noticed that the flourescent light in the loft shack, plus the phone's camera seem to have highlighted where I wiped off the excess white enamel paint from in the "dots". I didn't see them with the naked eye, but can definitely see a little blur next to the dot. I'll have a closer look and if I can see them with the naked eye, I'll redo them. I bought a 500ml can so I can do them about 100 times if I need to lol.

As I said, I'm a fussy old git ;)

I may even dust over the top surface of the radio fascia where the paint has worn through a bit. I'll do the whole top. I wasn't going to bother, but now...
Post Reply