Probably the 1000th car install thread on this forum...

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Tim Tom
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Probably the 1000th car install thread on this forum...

Post by Tim Tom »

So thinking about doing a permanent install for the cb in my car, now Location where i want to mount it I've already sorted because you can get a single din fascia for the coba 19 DX, antenna mount, still discussing that in my head but thats a problem for a later date... My problem is wiring the radio in! Now most people are going to say "Tap it off the 12v/cigarette lighter" which be fine if the power for socket turned off with the ignition, but it's constantly on with mine which I don't want to worry about it draining my battery because I've forgot to turn it off or something. So ideally something with a switchable live, now my next idea is a bit of a strange one but a lad at work said about possibly splicing it into the back of my actual car radio, not 100% keen on this idea but I suppose its worth ago. Anyway before i start going too crazy with splicing wired together etc just wanted to know your guys thoughts?

Also what is everyone's thoughts on scotch locks? I know they dont look the best but if it works and I can hide the wiring then I'm not to bothered. Cheers, Tim


P.s car is a mk 2 focus.
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Re: Probably the 1000th car install thread on this forum...

Post by SgtBilko302 »

My Golf has constant supply to the lighter socket. I put a cigar plug on my power leads and pull out when not using the car.

Paul.
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Re: Probably the 1000th car install thread on this forum...

Post by Tim Tom »

SgtBilko302 wrote: 21 Jun 2020, 20:56 My Golf has constant supply to the lighter socket. I put a cigar plug on my power leads and pull out when not using the car.

Paul.
Yes but I want to be able to use the cigarette socket for other things such as charging phone etc and would like it to look a lot tidier, hence why I want to go about hard wiring but so it turns off with ignition.
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Re: Probably the 1000th car install thread on this forum...

Post by ChrisMagpie »

You can get something called a fuse tap.
You find a fuse in the car's fusebox that is switched on with the ignition. Pull that fuse and put it into the fuse tap. The fuse tap then fits into the fusebox, where you pulled the fuse from. The fuse tap also takes a fuse to protect what you're powering off it (a 2 Amp or 3 Amp fuse will be fine for your CB).
The positive wire from your CB goes to the fuse tap. The negative wire from your CB can connect anywhere to the car's bodywork.

There are different sizes of car fuses, so you need to buy a fuse tap to match the size of your car's fuses.
They might be regular size car fuses, so you'd need a fuse tap like this:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Add-A-Circui ... 0735526749
Or they might be mini size car fuses, so you'd need a fuse tap like this:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-Add-A-Circ ... 0735824927

Try the fuse for the heated rear window, maybe?
The advantage of this method is it's easily removable in the future :thumbup:
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Re: Probably the 1000th car install thread on this forum...

Post by The Collector »

If you're going to be using any kind of amplifier, take a slightly thicker than needed power lead for both it and the radio straight from the battery and not through the car's own pre-existing wiring ;)
You say you want the supply switchable, and it sort of will be using the on/off button on your radio ;)
It might also cut down on electrical noise from your car's electrical system/alternator/coil etc. It did on mine, but not 100%.

Otherwise, follow some of the advice given above and patch into a wire that's live only with the ignition on. Ensure the power's on with the accessory part of the ignition key turn (stage 1) though, or you'll have to have your engine running all the time if it's patched into something that's only live on stage 2 for some reason.
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Re: Probably the 1000th car install thread on this forum...

Post by Tim Tom »

Spot on cheers lads, I'll look into the fuse tap idea and check wiring etc, still need to make sure this bloody radio works first, lad I work with should be bringing his radio in tomorrow so hopefully check that works then if so can go about buying fuse taps etc. Cheers lads.
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Re: Probably the 1000th car install thread on this forum...

Post by Cousinjack »

Just to add to the discussion.
Some radios lose their last channel setting when you remove the power ... such as the cobra uk25/ 29 etc...

It's really irritating when you've maybe shut the vehicle off to fill with fuel etc, jump back in and try to carry on with a conversation, only to find the cb has reset to ch.1

The older midland 77 - 99 etc reset to channel 9 too..

I'm changing my wiring to constant 12v

Surely leaving the cb on won't drain the battery too severely ?
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Re: Probably the 1000th car install thread on this forum...

Post by Tim Tom »

Cousinjack wrote: 26 Jun 2020, 00:20 Just to add to the discussion.
Some radios lose their last channel setting when you remove the power ... such as the cobra uk25/ 29 etc...

It's really irritating when you've maybe shut the vehicle off to fill with fuel etc, jump back in and try to carry on with a conversation, only to find the cb has reset to ch.1

The older midland 77 - 99 etc reset to channel 9 too..

I'm changing my wiring to constant 12v

Surely leaving the cb on won't drain the battery too severely ?

Yeah I was thinking that with the whole memory thing just like with a normal car radio. Well only way to find out, stuff to wire it in should be here next week :thumbup:
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Re: Probably the 1000th car install thread on this forum...

Post by The Collector »

It'll take almost zero power to switch it off at the knob and just have the memory saved.

RX usually drains about 1/2 a watt unless you've got say a Cobra back-lit radio, or loads of LED's on the front of the radio like a Christmas tree Amstrad.

Swapping the filament bulb for an LED should save a tiny bit of drain if you accidently left it on a few times.

Just ensure you've got the right rating of fuses in-line too. A 2.5/3amp should do the job for a UK40 radio, fast-blow are slways a good choice if you've got them. I usually have 1 about a foot from the battery as well as the one on the radio cable itself ;)
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Re: Probably the 1000th car install thread on this forum...

Post by Tim Tom »

The Collector wrote: 26 Jun 2020, 17:21 It'll take almost zero power to switch it off at the knob and just have the memory saved.

RX usually drains about 1/2 a watt unless you've got say a Cobra back-lit radio, or loads of LED's on the front of the radio like a Christmas tree Amstrad.

Swapping the filament bulb for an LED should save a tiny bit of drain if you accidently left it on a few times.

Just ensure you've got the right rating of fuses in-line too. A 2.5/3amp should do the job for a UK40 radio, fast-blow are slways a good choice if you've got them. I usually have 1 about a foot from the battery as well as the one on the radio cable itself ;)
All the other radios I've had before have had inline fuses fitted but this one looks like it's had a new power cable fitted at some point and had the fuse removed but with the fuse tap it lets me stick a fuse in for this so was gonna go with a 3 amp fuse to be on the safe side.
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Re: Probably the 1000th car install thread on this forum...

Post by The Collector »

I think it's something like volts divided by watts, equals amps, so 12(v)÷4(w)=3amps. Like I said, if you can find a quick-blow version of that fuse style it's great, but not essential.

Looks like someone's got a little weekend project ;)
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