Central Locking going off

[alze]

Hi All !

I live in a 'valley' so to speak, and when I'm home-stationary so every ounce of wattage helps in getting out. I find when i turn up the watts my central locking starts tripping out like crazy.

Is there a way to stop it ? I tried putting ferrite coils onto wires leading into the central locking relay, but no luck, albeit these are the 'clamp-on' style, rather than 'wound'.

Many thanks in advance,
Alze

[The Collector]

Can you put a switch inline that cuts off the feed to the central locking temporarily, maybe near the fusebox if it's accessible from inside thst is? It certainly sounds like the extra RF energy is playing havoc.
If you have a bit of real lead roof flashing hanging around, you could try cutting some strips and surrounding the control box with it to try and shield it.

We used to set off car/house alarms and trigger automatic doors etc in the early days with just normal power, let alone with burners.

There were rumours you could slow down the fuel pumps pricing dials by keying up with an added amplifier too, but that may have been an urban legend, as well as potentially dangerous!

[alze]

Can you put a switch inline that cuts off the feed to the central locking temporarily, maybe near the fusebox if it's accessible from inside thst is? It certainly sounds like the extra RF energy is playing havoc.
If you have a bit of real lead roof flashing hanging around, you could try cutting some strips and surrounding the control box with it to try and shield it.

We used to set off car/house alarms and trigger automatic doors etc in the early days with just normal power, let alone with burners.

There were rumours you could slow down the fuel pumps pricing dials by keying up with an added amplifier too, but that may have been an urban legend, as well as potentially dangerous!

Like the idea of putting a switch in, putting something between the fuse box http://bongobuddy.co.uk/fuses/ should be easy enough.

[The Collector]

You could modify a spare 30amp fuse by soldering wires onto the 2 test-points on the front flat surface and putting a switch inline between them and then cutting the fuse where it would normally "blow". It would isolate/make the connection on number 4 line. You can fit an inline fuse-holder and 30amp fuse for safety into the new bit of wiring for when it's in the on position.

You wouldn't have to mess with the wiring itself then, just fit the switch neatly somewhere underneath or by using a stick-on switch holder, to save cutting holes in the dash. The switch can be removed and the fuse can be replaced with a normal one to put it back to normal

[alze]

Hey Collector
I've fitted a leisure battery onto my Bongo and it uses an identical technique to be able to use the curtains/interior lights/cig power supply.
I'll share pics (and results !) when its done
A.

[The Collector]

What!?!?! Someone's used a time machine and invented my invention before I errr.. invented it! Sacre Bleu!

Sounds good to me as long as it does the job safely

[Lex_Michderxtx]

I have the same thing going on in my van. I had a Lincoln II+ in there and when I got it up to full RF power (35w) the windscreen wipers came on! I guess it's so strong it sets off the solenoid in the dash or something... If anyone has a more scientific explanation please don't hold back...

[108EH002]

Have you moved the antenna to the back of the vehicle to see if its the same ?

Encase the wiring system with tinfoil ?

Try rolling tinfoil along the dash and key the mic.....

[Lex_Michderxtx]

No I took the radio back to the shack and decided to get another radio for in the car. I don't need all that power and the aerial is in a funny spot on the front of the car. It's a Mitsubishi L300 4WD and they have this flat nose, the antenna is on the bullbar. So the car itself reflects a lot and the swr was impossible to get right. Also the radio was mounted right in front of the heater and the L2+ has this heat sink at the back that collected the full blast. I decided to go for a cheaper radio with a scan function (Midland 248). I don't need all this fancy ssb stuff anyway, I just want to scan the regular band to mostly listen locally.

I was just very curious what sorcery was behind flicking on my wipers.